1569 Bodice

  (under Construction)
 

Materials
Pattern
Outer fabric (just over a yard for most)
Lining fabric (just over a yard for most)
Heavy fabric (about a ½ yard)
Boning or zip ties (long ones)
Thread
Closures

1.cut 2 fronts and one back from the outer fabric.
2.cut 2 fronts and one back from the lining fabric.
3.cut 4 fronts from the heavy fabric.
4.Stack the 4 fronts in pairs of 2, making a left and a right, and trim ¼ “ off all sides.
5.Stitch the 2 pairs of fronts together in a continuous line making channels about twice as wide as the boning or other stiffeners your using.
6.Insert the stiffening material into the channels.
7.Stitch around the outer edge of the fronts.
8.Attach the fronts to the back at the side seams. Press seams open. Do this for the outer and lining fabrics.
9.With right sides together, stitch the outer to the inner bodice along the inner curved edge of the strap and upper back. Clip curves.
10.Stitch the other side of the straps, starting from the front seam to the tip. Clip curves.
11.Leave a about a 1 – 1 1/2 space at the top outer edge by the straps, then stitch along the outer edge leaving approximately a 6” space at the bottom center edge of the back. Clip curves and corners. Turn and press.
12.Insert the stiffened panels into the bodice through the hole in the center back, and position them in the front. Tack them in place. Stitch the space in the lower back shut.
13.Try the bodice on. Baste closed.
14.Insert the tips of the straps into the holes at the top outer edge of the bodice front.
15.Adjust the straps to your body. Tack into place. Remove the bodice and stitch the straps in place
16.Apply closures and trim as appropriate.

 

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Notes:
1.The most important thing to remember when modifying the pattern is that the center front needs to be on the grain.
2.The outer edge of the front and the forward edge of the back need to be on the bias.
3.The front can be solid if you create a lacing closure down the center back.
4.When tailoring, remember the shape you are shooting for is a squashed funnel. You want constant contact along the body without squeezing the body and forcing your breasts out the top.

 
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