Peg Together Mortise and Tennon stool
Tools needed to complete this project:
Tape measure
Pencil
Carpenters square
Circular saw (can be replaced by jigsaw)
Jig saw
Router (optional)
Drill
Wood file
Clamps (2)
Bore bit set
Sand paper
Poster board
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Step 1: Cutting the board into sections |
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The board we have is a 1X12 at 6ft long. Please be aware that a 1" board is actually 3/4 inch thick. This wood will work well for these benches, but for a longer bench you may need to add a central support or use thicker wood to prevent seat sag. Our bench we will be making will be 18 inches tall, by 19 inches long. We will start by measuring out our board into the following measurements: 18 – 18 -17 – 19. The two 18 inch measurements will create the two legs, the 17 inch measurement will create the cross piece. The remaining board (aprox 19 inches) will create the seat. Using your speed square set crossways on your board to guide your saw so that you get a square cut on your board. To accomplish this, place the blade of your saw on the center of your line. Place the speed square along the edge of your board and place the leg of the square against the base of the saw. As you cut, insure that your saw follows the edge of the square. |
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You should end up with four sections of the board: The seat (19”), the cross piece (17”), and 2 legs (18”). We will break down the construction into the three different sections. |
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Step 2: The legs |
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Now take your legs (18” X2 pieces), and set the other two pieces aside, away from your work area to prevent confusion of the pieces. Find the center line of your legs, top to bottom, and mark it down the center using your straight edge and your pencil. Measure down the center line and make a mark at the 5 1/8” and then make a second mark at 7 3/8”. These will be the drill points, using a ¾ ” bit, to create the mortise. Use a drill and a ¾ bit to drill these two holes. Then using a straight edge, draw a line that connects the holes along their sides creating a slot. Use your jig saw to cut the slot, joining the two holes. Use your file to make the slots smooth and even between the holes. |
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Measure 1 inch down from the top edge of each leg panel. Now we will take the pattern for the edge sweep and the ogree arch at the base and mark them onto the leg panels. Be sure to keep the pattern lined up on the edge and the bottom edge of the 1” line. Now we work above the 1 inch line. Measure 1 3/4” in from the edge and also measure to 3 3/4” in from the edge. Use your square to true the marks out to the edge. Now we take our jig saw and cut the excess areas away. Start with the long sweeps and then the ogree arch to build your comfort with the saw prior to cutting the tenons above the 1” line. Once these are all cut set the legs aside, and get the 17 inch piece for the cross member. |
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Step 3: The stretcher (cross piece) |
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First we will make a cut down the length that will make it 17 X 5 inches. Find the center line going crossways. Now choose one edge and make a tic mark 5 ¾ inches from either side of the center line. On the other edge, make a tick mark 5 inches to each side of the center mark. Now draw a line and connect the tic marks cross ways on the board. |
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The wider section is the bottom of the board. Going up the sloped line make a tic mark at the 1 inch and at the 4 inch marks on both lines. Using your carpenters square mark those 2 tick marks out to the ends. Use your jig saw to cut away the excess leaving the tennons extending from the ends of the board. As you cut the tennons use the saw to round the ends. Now try and insert the tennons through the holes in the legs. You will find that they do not fit. Take your file and file the edges of the tennons until they fit through both slots. We do not want them to fit through one and not the other. Once your tennons fit your mortices, place them through and mark the line showing the depth of the thickness of the legs. Put your 1 inch drill bit into your drill and put the tip of it so that the hole to be drilled will be 2/3 on the outside of the line and 1/3 on the inside.
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Step 4: Pegs |
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The pegs are simply wedge shapes cut from the scrap that was removed from the edges of the legs. 2 pegs are required for the construction of the bench, but I suggest making 4 as you will loose pegs over time. |
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Step 5: The seat |
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The first thing you do to prepare your seat is to to assemble the lower portion of the bench. Once you have it assembled measure between the inside edges of the bench legs. Do this at the center point over the cross piece. Write this measurement down. Now take your seat measure it from end to end and mark the half way point. Draw a line here from side to side. Divide the measurement you got from the first part of step five and add ¾ of an inch. Go half that distance to each side of the center line and make a mark across the short way. Measure from the edge 2 1/8 inches and put a tic mark on each line on both sides. Then do the same at the 3 3/8 inch mark on each line on both sides. Drill each of these points with a ¾ inch bit. Then using a straight edge connect the sides of the pairs of holes as we did on the leg sections. You should end up with four slots to be cut. Again, using your jigsaw, cut the joining lines and create your four mortice holes. Pick up you leg pieces and file the tennons until they fit into the mortices you have made into the seat. Then file the mortices in the seat as shown below to create an angle that matches the angle of the legs. |
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You should now be able to assemble your bench. Use the file to smooth out any spots that make it difficult to assemble. The tennons that come though the seat may protrude a bit. Use your pencil to mark them. Take the bench apart and then use the saw to trim them to your marked lines. |
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Step 6: Finishing Touches
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All that is left at this point is to sand the edges of all of the pieces of wood and it is now complete. You may also choose to router the edges and then sand them. You will also need to stain and seal the bench or you may paint it. |
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When finished your bench should look something like this, however, yours will be better as it is made from solid wood instead of plywood. I made a few of these in plywood, and yes it does work, however the cost that was saved was not worth the loss in authenticity.